Read this before firing your MHP LMG

Since the LMG has more moving parts than most blasters, it’s important to be well-versed in its function and what to do in case of a malfunction.

This is especially important if this is your first 3D printed or electric blaster.

We’ll have some general information first, then some LMG specific things to look out for and unjamming info.


#1 Things May Have Shifted in Transit

Carefully unpack your blaster.

Check for any broken parts, cracks, or warping that may have happened during shipping.

#2 Store Properly: Your Blaster is 3D Printed

Unless your blaster is specificially printed to withstand high temperatures, do not leave your 3D printed parts in direct sunlight or a hot car for extended periods of time. The parts could warp or discolor.

#3: How to Charge a Lipo Battery

If this is your first Lipo powered blaster, this video may help.

#4: How the trigger works

Pulling the trigger part-way starts the motors revving, and a full pull fires the blaster and cycles the belt. 

Experiment with different levels of pressure on the trigger before firing rapidly. 

If you understand how the trigger feels, you’ll be much more likely to get good performance out of your blaster. 

*Do not fully pull the trigger without letting the blaster rev up first.*

*Reving the blaster excessively can cause excess heat and risk damage to the motors, prints, wheels, etc.*

#5: Use Responsibly

With great power, comes great responsibility. The MHP LMG is a high performance blaster and can shoot hard. It is not a run of the mill nerf toy. Do not point the muzzle at anything you do not want to shoot. Keep the blaster unloaded when not in use. Use eye protection if firing towards others.

#6: Pre-flight Check

Charge Your Battery

Like most flywheelers, the LMG works best with a fully charged battery. There are a lot of parts moving in the LMG. A fully charged battery will have the easiest time cycling the blaster. Batteries are NOT shipped fully charged, so you will need to charge your battery before you can use it.

Loading Belt Links

Make sure to load links in the proper orientation. The links are designed with the back tighter than the front for better retention of the darts in the links. Links should be loaded with the tip of the dart facing the arrow on the links.

The Belt is Directional

The Belt is loaded into the blaster with the two (2) prongs of the belt going in first and the arrow on the link facing up. This will help ensure proper function.

#6: Play with good sportsmanship and have fun!

You’re repping a high powered blaster from Frontline Foam and MHP Arms. You may outrange your friends or shoot harder than them, but don’t be a jerk about it. Don’t fire at people who aren’t playing in the game. Nerf is played on an honor system.

Practice good sportsmanship when playing.

#7: Share with your friends, on social media, and leave us a review!

You’ll have a lot more fun with your blaster if you invite your friends to play with you and share it with others! Post where you got your blaster on social media and share what you think of your blaster as a review!


Facebook: Facebook Page Reviews

Google: Google Review

Troubleshooting Tips and Tricks

Common Issues:

In any case: If you expect the blaster to fire or cycle, but it does not, IMMEDIATELY cease use. Stop firing and stop revving. Identify the malfunction and fully resolve the issue before continuing to use the blaster. Potential issues are described below.


Most half-length darts work, but darts with wider heads often are more prone to jamming due to the larger head diameter. Waffle and adventure force darts work, but might jam more.

I recommend Worker darts, menguns, and a few brands of waffle darts. Just make sure the heads aren’t too large.

Dart Fit in Belt Links

If you load the links backwards, it could cause the darts to be too tight in the link and make it so the pusher can’t push the dart out of the link.

The pusher is designed to collapse in the case of a jam. If a dart is too tight in a link, it may cause a failure to fire. The darts should be tight enough to stay in the links, but not too tight. If you’ve used a Magpie, FR-1 Viper, or similar blaster where the dart is retained in a print and the pusher removes the dart from the cylinder, that would be a similar fit that you’re going for.

Check the belt links for damage.

The LMG uses the link to feed. If the blaster is loaded with broken, damaged, or mishaped links, it can cause feeding failures. Do not use any links that are cracked, warped, broken, or misshaped.

Blaster revs and cycles, but does not fire a dart / I hear the blaster firing, but no dart is coming out.

If you expect the blaster to fire, but it does not, IMMEDIATELY cease use. Stop firing and stop revving. Open the Belt Cover to identify the issue, and resolve the issue fully, before continuing. 

Check the barrel. If it sounds like a dart as entered the flywheels with a “Pop” sound, but no dart exits the barrel, it’s possible the dart is stuck in the barrel. Check the barrel for obstructions.

The belt stops feeding.

Check for broken or damaged links. That’s often the first cause for issues. 

Using an empty belt link, manually attempt to cycle the blaster by pushing forward on the charging handle. While pushing forward, pay attention to the belt link loading. The belt grabber should move to the left, over and past the belt link, catch onto the side of the belt link, then pull it into the blaster to the right. 

Occasionally, the belt puller may slip off of a belt link if the link is damaged or warped. If the belt grabber consistently slips off the links, contact support for guidance.

There is a pusher motor spinning sound, but nothing is happening

The most likely cause is the gear mounted to the gear box has stripped in the inside. Replacing that gear should solve it. You can identify this issue by opening the Belt Cover, and manually holding the pusher forward so you can see inside the top and identify the gear. When the blaster is revved and fired, the gear in the center should rotate. If it does not or rotates only if there is no force exerted on it, it likely needs replace. Contact support for guidance.

The blaster suddenly stops revving

Like all flywheel powered blasters, if the main flywheel motors experience too much resistance, they will stop spinning. Immediately stop revving the blaster if this happens, or you may risk burning out a motor and need to replace it.

The most common cause of flywheel motor stopping is a dart jam. If a broken or damaged dart is fired, it’s possible that some or all of the dart may get jammed in the flywheels. Open the Belt Cover and see if there is a dart stuck in the flywheels. Use needle nose pliers or something long and skinny to dislodge the jammed dart. Ensure the obstructions is fully removed before continuing use of the blaster.

If needed, you can remove either left or right wheel cover pieces to gain better access to the flywheels to remove a jam.

My blaster is warped or a part is bent.

Unless your blaster was specifically made out of a material designed to withstand high temperatures such as prolonged direct sunlight or being left in a hot car, the 3D printed parts may melt or warp. Avoid leaving your blaster exposed to heat. Our warranty covers manufacturer defects which would be any issues upon delivery or shortly after delivery. If the blaster arrives warped or broken, contact us.

If the blaster experiences or undergoes any issues after having been received in good condition, reach out to support to discuss replacement or repair options.

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